How to volunteer when red tape gets in the way: A story from Mawlamyine

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We made it a point to volunteer in our travels. I’m ashamed to admit we got lazy in South America. But in Asia, we tried. We really did. But for one reason or another — there was a large fee we had to pay or they wanted us to commit to six months or more — every opportunity evaded us. (There was that one time we bought medicine for a poor man in a Laos village, but that’s a really long, complicated story I’d rather not get into here.)

In the end, we realized that if we wanted to do something, we needed to get a bit creative and offer our time in a more basic way. No organizations, no red tape. This is that story.

Our interests have always lay with helping kids. If you could hear our squeals when we see Asian babies, then you’d know we’re obsessed. But we’re against donating toys or playing games, and we definitely don’t condone orphanage visits unless we have long-term plans. There’s something to be said for brightening a child’s day, of course, but what kind of lasting impact does it have? How does that increase their market value to break the cycle of poverty?

We know English. We can teach English. We also have money. We can buy school supplies. And that’s what we did on two really eye-opening days in Mawlamyine, Myanmar.

Among the list of questions to ask the guesthouse owner, Mr. Anthony — “how much is the bus to Taungoo?” and “what time does the market close?” — was the most important one: “Do you know a school where we can practice English with students and get them school supplies?”

He knew a place — St. Joseph’s Convent, a school and home for children who’ve been displaced by government actions. (Myanmar is home to many people of the Karin minority, a Christian-faith ethnic group that has been persecuted for many years.) So he phoned his friend, a nun at the convent, who arranged a time for us to come.

We didn’t quite know what we were getting into. Would we help with homework? Would we be assisting a teacher? Would we be conducting a round of English sing-a-long with toddlers? As we walked into the classroom on the first day, it was clear that no, no, we’d be playing teacher for two hours.

There was the dry erase board. There were the waiting students. Go.


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Mawlamyine, Myanmar: So that’s what it was like to backpack 20 years ago

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Of all the places we visited in Myanmar, Mawlamyine is the one that had us thinking, “So this is what it was like to backpack 15-20 years ago…” Locals weren’t familiar with tourist faces, or at least that’s what we gleaned from a walk through the food market, and there were maybe 15 foreigners in the whole city. I’m not exaggerating when I say that when we arrived, we were the talk of the town. It was the first time we visited a place that was on the verge of something big. It actually felt a bit like a pre-tourist Luang Prabang, Laos.


To refresh your memory, Luang Prabang is the leafy, temple-dotted, colonial riverside city in Laos that’s so precious the entire place has been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Mawlamyine has what it takes — golden stupas topping mountains, a riverside begging for outdoor cafes, restaurants, and night markets as well as lush green mountains for miles — to reach that kind of recognition.

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A Hindu and a Muslim make a Buddhist pilgrimage to the Golden Rock

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From Yangon, we jetted to the village of Kinpun, which serves as the base for a major Buddhist pilgrimage site known as the Golden Rock. The Rock sits atop Mt. Kyaiktio and legend has it that the rock maintains its precarious slanted position thanks to a Buddha hair in the stupa.

We spent one day exploring Kinpun village and hanging out with the staff at our guesthouse, a lovely group of guys who watched the Olympics with us and taught Eaman how to chew a betel.


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What’s that red stuff? and other burning questions about Burmese culture

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Myanmar’s traditions are less a part of travel vernacular than, say Thailand’s (ladyboys). Here, I break down the ones you’ll see most often in Burmese culture — on and off the streets.

What’s that red liquid stuff on the streets? I first thought it was blood, but it’s actually the remnants of chewing the ubiquitous betel leaf, a slightly narcotic “snack” (similar to Indian pan) made of the betel leaf and filled with herbs, betel nut and dry tobacco. Everywhere in Myanmar, you see locals — mostly men — munching on the stuff and spitting it out in red, juicy intervals. Eaman tried it twice, and mostly enjoyed it, especially that second time when he felt reeeaalll niiccee.

The betel leaves.


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The wild and weird city known as Yangon

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Culture shock. We haven’t really had any during our travels. But here we were in Myanmar’s former capital of Yangon, walking streets filled with dosa makers, begging monks (a really odd sight) and fortune tellers. People stared, people asked us where we came from and not a tourist was in sight. It was filthy, it was poor and it was real. Yes, we were a little culture-shocked.

You could say it felt a bit like visiting India back in the day, but even in India you would see a Hollywood celebrity image here, or an American soap opera playing there. In Myanmar, there were so few traces of Western influence.

I’m not trying to sound like Christopher Columbus, discovering some new land. People have clearly traveled here before, but at the moment, Myanmar is different than most places. Coming here gave us the best taste of what it was like to backpack 15-20 years ago, especially in the small towns, where we spent half our time.

We had just two days in Yangon, and that time was a swift, intense introduction to the land sometimes called Burma. (Myanmar is the written name, Burma, the spoken.) Nowhere else have we been assaulted with that many smells and sights. Incense to the right, dog crap to the left. We went to markets, ate at traditional tea houses (milky Indian-style tea and samosas!) and indulged in juicy dosas.


We also had our palms read — a total joke. Eaman and I got pretty much the same fortune. We’re going to go Singapore, get a promotion (forget the fact that we are currently unemployed) and win the lottery. But Eaman will apparently impregnate an 18-year-old.


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The ins and outs of traveling to Myanmar

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Myanmar is known for many things — food, temples, strict sanctions — but decent Web connections is not one of them. So though we’ve left the country (and are now in Malaysia), we won’t deprive you of stories and pictures. But before we share, I think it’s important to tell you what we did before arriving.

Myanmar isn’t just any tourist destination. It’s one with many restrictions and regulations for travelers, not to mention more abstract issues. You may have seen the recent NY Times article about the moral dilemma involved in visiting Myanmar. (In sum: Though there are ways around it, our tourist dollars are often filling the already deep pockets of the military government.)

It’s that, and other practicalities that make a little research necessary in visiting Myanmar.

The visa. I can only speak for what it’s like to get the 28-day visa in Bangkok, but if you’re already in Asia before arrival, this is where you’ll be getting it. Visas on arrival are available to only a few nationalities, and the U.S. is not one of them. Also worth noting is that you can extend your visa by paying the overstay fee, but we heard that staying longer than two weeks isn’t looked upon favorably.

To get the visa, we followed the helpful directions from the blogs Flashpacker at Forty and Leave Your Daily Hell, which involved getting to the embassy super early and going down the street to a “cafe” that provides all the paperwork so you can complete it in advance. We do have one note to add: When we told them we needed the visa back the same day in order to also get our India visa, which took six days, they did in fact seek proof of a flight within 24 hours. When we showed them that our flight was a week away, the official was less than thrilled. “We were hoping you could make an exception,” Eaman said. “Everyone wants an exception,” he grumbled. (We got an exception.)


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Koh Tao is for (snorkel) lovers

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We ended our week in the Thai islands on Koh Tao, a small island on the Gulf side that doles out almost as many SCUBA certifications as dive shops in Cairns, Australia. (That’s a lot.)

I’ve already dived in Australia and Eaman wasn’t super keen, so instead, we spent our time engaged in our favorite beach activity: snorkeling. And Koh Tao’s huge coral beds and teal waters are a perfect place to do it. On a day-long snorkel trip around the islands we saw a reef shark (!), visited a beautiful private island and fed bananas to fish in the water. If you haven’t tried it, it’s an absolute must. The fish ambush every inch of your body and some even nip you for food. It was a very cool, Under-the-Sea moment.

Anyway, like any beach, Koh Tao is best seen through pictures. Oh, and did I mention our hotel — the basic, but very nice Sai Thong Resort on a secluded beach — upgraded us to a seaside bungalow with sea view for free? I know, life is really hard.

Our accommodation had three small beaches, and from one, it was a short swim out to some reef sharks, which almost all the other guests saw at some point. We, of course, never did.


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7 steps to beach bum life: Koh Phangan edition

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I had dreams of beautiful Koh Phi Phi and low-key Koh Lanta before this trip, but with rainy season upon us, we had to stick to the Gulf side, where the islands are well-protected from monsoons. So which would it be: Koh Samui, Koh Phangan or Koh Tao?

Believe it or not, we had been pretty stressed out with moving around a lot and visa applications and endless research, so all we wanted was to sit on the beach.

We feared the over-development and commercialism of Samui were against anything we wanted out of this one-week stretch in the islands, so we opted first, for five days in chilled out Koh Phangan in an area away from the island’s legendary Full Moon Party. We just didn’t really want to do the whole 18-year-olds-raging-with-neon-paint thing. (I’ve done that already; it was called Studying Abroad in Australia.)


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