Myanmar’s traditions are less a part of travel vernacular than, say Thailand’s (ladyboys). Here, I break down the ones you’ll see most often in Burmese culture — on and off the streets.
What’s that red liquid stuff on the streets? I first thought it was blood, but it’s actually the remnants of chewing the ubiquitous betel leaf, a slightly narcotic “snack” (similar to Indian pan) made of the betel leaf and filled with herbs, betel nut and dry tobacco. Everywhere in Myanmar, you see locals — mostly men — munching on the stuff and spitting it out in red, juicy intervals. Eaman tried it twice, and mostly enjoyed it, especially that second time when he felt reeeaalll niiccee.
The betel leaves.
The betel nuts.
Some instructions from a guesthouse worker.
The making of (excuse the blurry photos).
Bucket of betel spit positioned conveniently next to a computer at a Taungoo internet cafe.
It looks like everyone have tooth decay. True? Apparently, betel makes for strong teeth. Pretty teeth? Not so much.
Why is everyone in the restaurant making that kissing noise? Try getting a waiter’s attention by saying, “Hello?” or “Excuse me?” Now try making a smooching noise. It’s the latter that’ll get his attention. Of course, with the creeping influx of tourists, restaurants are a little more used to our Western ways, but the smooch will get you the quickest response. I tried it, but it just felt wrong.
Kissy noises abound.
What’s with all the Indians? In the early 1900s, the British brought Indians they had already colonized over to Myanmar to act as, sort of, second colonizers. The Burmese and Indians seem to generally get along — minus, ya know, the bloody battle with the Muslim Indians — and you’ll find just as many, if not more, Indian restaurants than Burmese around the country. That also means samosas are fried up on nearly every street corner. And you never say no to those samosas.
Two jovial Indian man — both born in Myanmar with grandparents from Jaipur — whom we met in Mektila:
He was hilarious.
While waiting for a bus at his office, we got to watch some classic Bollywood movie songs.
Finally, is that yellow stuff everyone wears sunscreen? It’s called thanaka and its an ancient cosmetic used for sun protection. An au natural method, it’s created by rubbing a few drops of water with a small log of the thanaka tree. Men and women wear it, and children often apply it on in funny patterns, like face paint. We, of course, tried it and it felt incredibly smooth on the skin. On traveler we met said it cleared up her skin problem.
Sample set up at the thanaka museum — yes, there is one — in Bagan.
