Visiting Bangkok, NOT seeing temples and Buddhas

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For us, Bangkok was less about street food and palaces and more about getting visas, exchanging money for Myanmar and, in my case, going to the hospital after developing a nasty dry cough in Chiang Mai. We had just a few days in the Thai capital — 2.5 before the Thai islands and one after — and, can you believe it? We didn’t even have time (or more accurately, energy) to see the Grand Palace and Emerald Buddha.

Since we had more day-to-day things to accomplish than sightseeing, we stayed outside the tourist center and realized something: We really like Bangkok. The city — the regular, non-postcard parts of the city — is much less frenetic and crazy than we expected. People are kind and relaxed, the public transportation — the monorail known as the SkyTrain — is streamlined and efficient, and the sidewalks are wide and perfect for strolling. I’m shocked to say that even though I’m no longer a big city girl, I think I’d be happy living there.

We may not have done the regular visitor’s circuit, but we were pretty happy about our stay. Here’s a look (minus the bit about our eventful trip to the red light district; that’s a story for a blog that parents don’t read):

First things first: Pizza Hut — located at MBK, one of Bangkok’s many shiny, spiffy, gigantic malls. I know, I know, “how could we not have Thai food?” Well, after a long train ride from Chiang Mai, I can’t even describe to you how excited we were to get some American food. And this Pizza Hut was actually a very classy joint.


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A quick note to say…

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…the blog hasn’t died!

Internet in Myanmar, particularly in the south where we currently are stationed, is spotty, if even available. I have posts about Bangkok, the Thai Islands and Myanmar to share, but they’ll have to wait until a stronger connection.

Stay tuned!

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Chiang Mai in two days: the Sunday market, sleeping on tigers and hanging with cobras

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We spent only two weeks in Thailand. Perhaps that’s shortshrifting the country, but we wanted more time in less-visited places like Laos and Myanmar. Plus, a flight to Bangkok is much easier than, say, a flight to Yangon, Myanmar.

The bulk of our Thai time went to the islands — best idea ever — so we wound up with 2.5 days in Chiang Mai. It’s a charming city with a huge expat population, but we didn’t spend enough time there for me to say much else about it other than: the Sunday market is fantastic and visiting Tiger Kingdom is a must.

We’ve been to a lot of markets in Asia, but Chiang Mai’s Sunday shopping extravanganza is worth a visit for sheer variety. No stall was the same and each was interesting. Even better, the street food — particular to the market — was unbelievable. (It just got a mention on Newsweek‘s list of 101 best places to eat around the world!) I ate a delicious dinner with dessert and a drink for $2.50.

Afterward, we got 30-minute foot massages for $2. (I imagine it was cheaper than massage parlors because we didn’t have to pay their rent; it was just a row of reclining leather chairs within the market.) Hello, Thailand!


Mochi ice cream that was, dare I say, better than Bubbie’s in Honolulu.


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From backpacker to flashpacker: living in luxury in Laos

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Somewhere between South America and South East Asia, Eaman and I went from backpackers to flashpackers, which, if you’re not familiar with the term, refers to backpackers who travel with a slightly higher level of comfort.

And with that comes nicer accommodation — partly because we had some hostel-fatigue and partly because for almost the same price per person we paid in South America (anywhere from $5-15 each), we get our own — clean, often spacious — room with a quality breakfast.

Laos, in particular, had some amazing hotels and guesthouses (and staff) that became just as much a part of the traveling experience as treks and tours.

Our first day in Laos saw us in Pakse’sChampasak Palace Hotel, which used to be a prince’s playground. Being pretty much the only guests there at the time, it felt like our ownpalace. Yes, it was a splurge — $35/night — but it was also our first night’s sleep after our momentous Vietnam-to-Laos bus ride, so we just wanted some peace and quiet…and comfort.

So much to love: The detail in the decor of the Shining-esque hallways were gorgeous, two lotus ponds lined the grand entrance and sunsets from our fifth floor were a killer neon orange. Plus, the breakfasts were big enough to hold me over until dinner: baguette, eggs, coffee, juice, water and dragonfruit! My bank account is looking meager, but I definitely don’t regret splashing out on this one.


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Luang Prabang: temples and waterfalls and bears, oh my!

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After visiting so many small towns and sites that most travelers don’t venture to in Laos, it was a little strange to end our time in the most touristed city — Luang Prabang. We were worried that seeing more travelers would somewhat taint what was supposed to be a beautiful, spiritual city, but as we realized from our five days there — we were sorely mistaken.

OK, the main stretch where the great night market is located is jam-packed with foreigners, but other areas, particularly by the Nam Ou River and the area immediately outside the center, embody everything we had heard about this city. It’s no surprise that the entire city is marked a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Luang Prabang has this zen-like quality to it, accented with leafy green streets, beautiful colonial architecture and quiet avenues. (Though, why young backpackers parade around the streets in short shorts is beyond me. This is a temple city! Please go away now.)

Anywhoo, it’s easy to let days go by before you realize you didn’t really “do” anything beyond wafting through temples and sipping on fruit shakes in Luang Prabang. And that’s pretty much what we did.


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A note on transportation in Laos: 3 very different bus rides

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We bus-ed it pretty much everywhere during our 26 days in Laos — the exception being our flight out of the country to Chiang Mai, Thailand — and the best way to paint the picture of how crazy, mind-boggling and ultimately rewarding overland transport through Laos can be, I’ll give you three very different examples.

Hue, Vietnam to Pakse, Laos or To Hell and Back. This is a long story, but bear with me. We had booked an air-con bus through our Hoi An, Vietnam guesthouse, and they assured us it would be a nice bus for the 18-hour haul. When we got to the bus station, we were directed not to one of the coach buses but to a rickety local bus, the kind you wouldn’t even want to take for a jaunt within city limits. As soon as I realized this was our ride, I started chanting, “Ohmygod, ohmygod, ohmygod, oh mygod.”


The bus was packed with all locals except one Australian traveler named Tony, whom we later befriended. And as it turns out, there weren’t enough seats…allegedly. One local man wouldn’t give up the seat next to him, claiming he was saving it. That was complete BS. But for the time being we didn’t argue, and I sat in the front. A few minutes later, a Vietnamese couple came back on board and told me I was in their seats. I explained, “But where will I go? There are no seats!” Of course I wasn’t going to kick them out of their rightful seats, but I thought this confrontation would spur the local man into giving me the vacant seat.

Then people started to push me, telling me to get up and sit in the aisle for all they cared. (I thought that was ridiculous but later learned that it wasn’t that odd of a suggestion.) Others were shouting. It was a complete nightmare. Eaman told the locals not to touch me and told me to stay put, explaining that we were getting hassled just because we were foreigners.

And that’s when the (light) waterworks came. I wasn’t actually scared; I was just frustrated. I just wondered, what the hell are the next 18 hours going to be like?

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The 7 best things about Vientiane, Laos

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Everyone we talked to about traveling in Laos glossed over Vientiane, as if it were just a transit stop along the way. We beg to differ. We loved so much about Laos’ capital city during our four-day stay there — seven things in particular.

1. The pace. Everyone calls Vientiane the world’s most chilled-out capital, so I said, I’ll be the judge of that. I’ve changed a lot and get really overwhelmed and uncomfortable in big cities — my NYC days are definitely behind me — so if I think it’s chilled-out, then it really is. And as it turns out, this is the most quiet, laid-back, lazy capital in the world. There were times I felt like I had to whisper, times I wondered where everyone had gone and times when I took a three-hour mid-day nap and missed out on nothing. If I had to pick an Asian city to live in as an expat, it wouldn’t be the ever-popular Chiang Mai, Thailand; it would Vientiane. (By the way, the expats in Vientiane are refreshingly not-annoying. They speak Lao pretty well, mingle with locals and don’t eat just cheeseburgers.)

Wandering through wats.


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Cute kids and a humbling homestay in Ban Kong Lo, Laos

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I think some people are cave people. What I mean is, some people get a kick out of exploring caves. I am not one of those people. So when the idea of visiting Kong Lo Cave in central Laos came up, I wasn’t sure if it was worth it.

I had my heart set on doing a two-day trek through Phu Hin Bin NPA (National Protected Area) that involved a village homestay, emerald-hued lakes and our money going mostly to the villagers themseves. Unfortunately, because they can’t subsidize costs, it was out of my budget. It didn’t help that rainy season meant much of the regular path — and the emerald lake — would be impassable. (If you can afford it, please go on my behalf!)

In that case, there was just one other equally well-reviewed sight in central Laos — Kong Lo, a 7km cave that actually sits within Phu Hin Bin and gives you a great look at the park’s outer boundaries. That was the hook for me. And once we heard you could do homestays in the village, we were sold.

The cave was, in fact, really cool. It was interesting to navigate for more than an hour each way through the dark space with ceilings that, at times, were more than 300-feet-tall. We happened to be the first ones there — the boatmen were whittling paddles and playing games with beer caps when we arrived — so going through first was a nice treat, at least just to say we were first. The cave is just 1km from the village, you pay about $2 in entrance fees and each boat costs roughly $12 per boat with a max of 3 people. I’m so glad we went, but for me, it was more about our experience in the village that will always stay with me.

After a supremely relaxing three days in Thakhek — worth a visit if you want to chill out, talk to locals, and eat good, cheap Lao and Thai food — we headed off to the village right outside the cave, known as Ban (village) Kong Lo.

It involved three modes of transportation. At 9:30 am we took a cushy (by Lao standards) AC bus that was en route to Vientiane, but we hopped off after just one hour at Vieng Kham. We then took a dingy local bus to Nahin. Once in Nahin, we were notified by a songthaew bound for Ban Kong Lo that we had another two hours before he’d be leaving, which really meant, “we’ll leave when I have more people.” So we finally arrived at 4:30 pm.

It sounds like we knew exactly what we were doing — and we did know where we needed to go every step of the way — but since it was a matter of flagging down buses and songthaews, we were never 100% sure we’d make it to the next leg.

As it turns out, this was one of the most fun rides we’ve ever taken — and one of the most scenic. We wound up the mountains through jungle (and Phu Hin Bin, I think) and the last 45 minutes were the best. This was our (unPhotoshopped) sight through the songthaew toward the end:


Do NOT take a tour bus; the three-way transport is a part of the experience. And really easy.

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