A note on Buenos Aires fashion, from a backpacker

Everyone raved about how stylish everyone is in Buenos Aires, so Eaman and I were a little skittish about how our decidedly grubby backpacker clothes would fit into porento life. Within two days of moving into our apartment, we promptly headed to the mall (yes, there is one) and cheap outlet stores to create some semblance of a normal wardrobe. We didn’t buy much — jeans were my most significant purchase — just enough to avoid cargo shorts and yoga pants 24/7.

But since we came from the fashion capital known as New York, once we settled into BA, we found that the moda was a little, um, unremarkable. I didn’t expect much out of most barrios (neighborhoods), but I expected a whole lot from the nieghborhood we call home — Palermo. It’s known for its hip style, well-edited boutiques and sidewalks that double as runways. But, generally speaking, the Palermo-ites’ fashion was — how shall I put it? — a little…yawn.

Their outfit of choice, as I have now deduced, is an 80s-style crop top (preferably floral), skinny jeans, top knot bun and fringe purse. It’s like Urban Outfitters came to BA, vomitted and left without cleaning up. (The other uniform is booty shorts and barely there tops…at any time of the day.) Where’s the diversity? The experimentation? Even the Zara stores were a good two seasons behind on trends.

Now, I’m definitely not strutting around in hot-to-trot outfits, but I think my 55L backpack and I have a valid excuse. And I’m no professional fashion critic, but I do enjoy and appreciate interesting fashion. I hate to be harsh, but I guess I just had high expectations. I couldn’t help but dwell on fashion — a seemingly irrelevant topic considering our style of travel — but people had built it up to something it wasn’t.

That being said, the are some lovely boutiques and funky pieces few and far between, so I said I would allow myself one nice fashion piece from BA, something that would immediately strike me. (Yes, yes, I know, this trip is like one big treat. But let a girl have her fashion, mmkay?) Despite the dearth of style, I had a feeling I’d find something…

…and this dress, by Argentine designer Kosiuko, did the trick:

After consulting with two of my best friends back home via photos snapped in the dressing room, I snatched it up. It was an investment but certainly more cheaply priced than if it were in the States. I love it dearly, even if Britney Spears apparently loves the designer.

Oh, but then I saw a woman in a cafe wearing the most divine pair of bright teal loafers, and I had to have those, too. So with my meager Spanish, I asked her where she bought them — Donde comprio sus zapatos? — and yesterday, I managed to find (and buy!) the same pair, even though she couldn’t remember the name of the shop and only vaguely remembered the location. And they were super cheap, too. Eaman calls them loafers for Hamptons moms, but I happen to like them.

But I can’t say these purchases will help contribute to what I believe is BA’s lack of bold style. These two pieces are going straight home with my friend, Shyema (who’s coming to visit tomorrow!).

Instead, I’m going to continue marching on with the cotton dress I wear every other day and the knotted T-shirt-black skirt ensemble I wear on the other days. It’s weird, but it works. I can deal.