Falling in love with El Bolson, Argentina: Part One — the hostel

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As I last mentioned, we’re currently road-tripping through the state of Chubut in Argentina for a week of small towns and beautiful hiking. We started in Esquel, a former Welsh colony, where we spent one night. There isn’t much to write home about re:Esquel, but we’ll be going back there for a few days — one of which will be spent at the very untouristy Los Alerces National Park — before we begin WWOOFing in Trevelin (30km south of Esquel) January 8, so I’ll offer a more detailed report about it then.

Now the plan was to spend two days in the hippie, organic-loving town of El Bolson before making our way a little further north to celebrate New Year’s Eve in Bariloche, the glitziest city Patagonia has to offer, relatively speaking, thanks to the droves of Argentinians who flock there around this time of the year for vacation.

We arrived in El Bolson on Wednesday without a hostel in mind. One, La Casona de Odile, was listed both on a hostel booking site but also in my book under the pricey ‘A’ listing category, so I figured it was worth a look, especially after we asked a local for directions. He said this particular hostel was more in the country and less in the downtown, a term I use lightly for El Bolson.


The country? That sounded amazing–and a perfect balance for the more “city” experience we’d have soon in Bariloche. And, as we later found out, amazing is putting it lightly.

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Merry Christmas from El Calafate!

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After our trek through Torres del Paine, we headed back to El Calafate, Argentina, where we’ve spent the last four days in complete relaxtion mode. Reading, eating, buying chocolates, watching I Want a Dog for Christmas, Charlie Brown on YouTube — it’s like our own holidays away from home.

Last night, our hostel, I Keu Ken, hosted a lamb BBQ with drinks, music, a raging bonfire and tons of Argentinian merriment. Apparently, Christmas Eve is a big night for partying here, so it was a long night capped with a ride in the rear bed of a pick-up truck to a bar in the “city.” Good times, sketchy townies.


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Three months in: How we’re feeling and what we’re thinking

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December 20 marked our three month travel-versary so I thought now would be a good time to look back on how these past few months — which have taken us from Peru to Patagonia — have shaped up.

In a nutshell, life is freaking awesome. I feel so lucky that I can get up every morning to see beautiful things, meet interesting people and stretch my boundaries. I’ve had so many conversations with fellow backpackers, where we’re practically pinching ourselves for getting this opportunity to see the world.

Iguazu Falls:


On top of that, the other truly incredible part of this trip is that we can CHILL. We have time to read, time to zone out, time to go for a walk. Our biggest responsibility is making sure we get to our bus or flight on time.

When I think back to all we’ve done and compare it to what some backpackers have done in the same time span, I feel like we’ve only scratched the surface of South America. But once I made a mental list, I realized that we’ve been able to see and do things in three months that some people can do only in a lifetime.

Some of our favorite memories include:

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Nine lessons learned from trekking the ‘W’ circuit in Torres del Paine

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Of all the places we wanted to visit on this trip, Patagonia was the one place with the most vague itinerary. We knew we wanted to go, but to do what, when and for how long were all questions marks.

But Torres del Paine, the 242,242 hectare-size national park near Puerto Natales, Chile was a destination that constantly popped up in backpacker conversations. After Google-imaging the heck out of the place, we were convinced we had to go there, too. Turquoise-colored lakes, snow-capped mountains, brilliantly vivid wild flowers…yes please!

(Our own pics:)


But how exactly to attack this park was the question. There aren’t really guided tours, so camping (and carrying all your equipment) was the only way to do it. Since we had no camping skills — save for my trip to the Outback when someone else set up my tent and Eaman’s trip to Wisconsin when he didn’t pack enough warm clothes — we thought a few day trips would suffice…until we were told the park was two hours from Puerto Natales and doesn’t suit day trips. Then we thought, OK, we’ll do a few days but stay in refugios (rustic hostels) along the way…until we found out they’d be almost $100/night each. Later we thought maybe one night of camping to get a feel for it… until we talked to the guys working at our hostel.

They mapped out the famous ‘W’ trek as if there were no other option. It would be more than 80 km of hiking, camping every night and fending for ourselves without a guide.

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Iguazu Falls: A Wonderful Wonder of the World indeed

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We got soft in Buenos Aires, in terms of energy, physique and brainpower. A trip to Iguazu Falls – a set of ginormous waterfalls that span both Brazil and Argentina and were recently inducted into the Seven Wonders of the World hall of fame – couldn’t have come at a better time. We were ready to get back in tune with nature, work muscles whose primary use in BsAs had been to pick up a cup of coffee and, as I like to put it, feel alive again.

They say you need two hours to explore the Brazilian side of the falls and two days to explore the Argentine side; the latter, more expansive side gets you close to the falls, while the former offers a panoramic view. (You also need to pay the $140 visa fee to go to Brazil if you’re American. Wasn’t about to do that!) So we spent two days exploring what Argentina had to offer. Funny, because at the beginning of the trip, neither of us really understood what could be so great about some waterfalls…

On Sunday we boarded the Tigre Iguazu bus for an 18-hour ride to falls. Surprisingly, the ride itself was painless; it was the movies played on board that killed us: Furry Vengeance, starring Brendan Fraser, Just Go With It, starring Adam Sandler and Jennifer Aniston and The Beaver, starring Mel Gibson – all in Spanish. Oh, and they played Twilight and New Moon, the latter of which they played the same 20 minutes three times over until they realized the disc was broken. I’m not quite sure how the Argentines manage to select the most hideous and widely panned films of all time, but the movies put us into a deep sleep, so thanks for that, Gibson et al.


Arriving at 7:30 a.m. on Monday and being the morning go-getters that we both are, we hit the national park that day itself. People had warned us that it resembles Disney World, what with it’s signage and gas train that runs through the park, but for a weekday, I found it refreshingly tranquil.


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Photo of the Week: Buenos Aires Street Art

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Buenos Aires has probably the most amazing street art of any city I’ve been to (sorry NYC!). As such, over the past few weeks I’ve tried to take as many photos of this art as I could before we leave the city. Below is one of my favorites which is a giant mural of a sumo wrestler completed under the bridge of a highway. For my complete collection of the BA street art photos, click on this Facebook album.

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So long, Buenos Aires! Here’s what’s next for us…

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Today we leave our lovely apartment and go back to the reality of backpacking with an 18-hour bus ride to Iguazu Falls, a gargantuan set of waterfalls, spanning Argentina and Brazil that was recently named one of the new Seven Wonders of the world.

From there we head back to Buenos Aires for a quick couple of days before taking a one-way flight to Patagonia for a whole lot of hiking. I was starting to get bored (and out of shape) in BsAs, but I think Patagonia will be a nice, quick, difficult fix.

After bus-ing our way through the region, we are heading to our first WWOOF gig of the trip! We’ve wanted to work with the organization since we decided to take this trip, and I’m so glad it all worked out. We sent so many emails and got so few responses that it wasn’t looking good for a while. But huzzah! We’re going to be working on a potato patch, and cultivating fruit and jams in Argentine Patagonia. I’ll be sure to report back when the time comes.

Once we flex our green thumbs, Eaman and I will split up for two weeks of solo travel. As much as we love each other and enjoy spending time together, we both agree a little independent time is important. So, I’m going to Colombia (!!!!!!!!) after hearing so many wonderful things about the country and Eaman is staying in Patagonia to do some plan-as-he-goes exploring.

After that, we’ll meet up in Panama and spend a week in the Caribbean — life is so hard, no? Then it’s time for Hawaii for my cousin’s wedding (where I’ll see all my family!), hopefully another WWOOF gig and a semi-steady job because it’s certainly not cheap to sit on the Hawaiian beaches sans income!

So there it is. All that planning required a ton of what we call “admin days,” but it was well worth it. We’re totally psyched with this itinerary! And I love how a lack of advance planning can result in such great surprises; I didn’t think I’d have time for Colombia, and we never even considered Panama previously. (These extra countries added between Chile and Hawaii was a function of wanting a cheaper flight. A straight flight from Santiago to Hawaii was almost the same price as adding in more countries in between. So why the heck not?)

But before I totally close the chapter on BsAs, I need to reflect. I had high expectations for BsAs. How did it stack up?

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A guide to Buenos Aires: What to do and where

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It’s not easy to accumulate visitors on a trip that’s all about last-minute planning. Our friends have only a set number of vacation days and have to plan well in advance, but we often don’t know what we’re doing or where we’ll be even a week in advance.

Our seven-week stay in Buenos Aires was different. It was the longest we’d be staying in one place in the forseeable future, and we had an apartment and growing familiarity with the city from which our friends could mooch. And so last Thursday until this past Tuesday, our friend from New York, Shyema, came to visit.

Shyema has an eye for photo ops:


We had such an amazing time playing host and showing Shyema the best of off-the-beaten path Buenos. And in that time, it dawned on me just how much we’ve learned about the city and it also reinforced my love for sharing travel recs with friends.

We may not be experts, but if you find yourself in BsAs at any point, check out this list of our favorite spots.

RESTAURANTS

Steak
Overall… Don Saverio, formerly known as La Rosalia. A warm ambiance, kind waitstaff, great quality steak and the best provoleta (baked slab of cheese; look it up) all at an affordable price.

Makeshift Thanksgiving dinner at Don Saverio with Shyema:


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