Welcome to our Honolulu home!

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We first dabbled with apartments abroad while in Buenos Aires, where we were lucky find this colorful one bedroom in the trendy neighborhood of Palermo Soho. We were hoping for similar luck in Honolulu, especially because, unlike BsAs, where we stayed for seven weeks, we planned to live in Honolulu for at least a few months.

And to our good fortune, we were lucky again. But there’s a back story to all of this. So, let me back it up, back it up.

While in Cartagena, Colombia the last week of January, I realized, “Crap! We need to start looking for an apartment in Honolulu if we really want to move in mid-February!” So the Craiglist search began.

And it wasn’t promising. Rent was too high. Apartments weren’t furnished. Landlords/agents wouldn’t accept short-term leases. We were even willing to share with random roommate(s), thinking it’d be a fun way to meet new people, but many didn’t want couples and others only wanted females. Also, I just can’t get on board with being 420 friendly. Sorry.

We extended our search to Airbnb, which is how we found our BsAs apartment and VRBO, but the prices were ludicrously high.

Just a day before we left Honolulu, it was looking pretty grim. Sure, we had accommodations for the first few days in Hawaii, thanks to the wedding and the accompanying hotel my parents booked for us. But what about after that? Would we have to say goodbye to the islands and head to Asia sooner than expected?

Well, we ended up getting one positive response, and it was for a “HUGE” studio apartment in Kaimuki. My cousin Pratt and her new husband, Craig, who live in Honolulu and had been giving some of our Craigslist picks a once over, had given us a list of neighborhoods to live in, and fortunately Kaimuki was one of them. We set up an appointment for the day after getting to Honolulu and prayed that it wouldn’t get scooped up before we arrived.

So in between wedding festivities, we saw it. And loved it. It was perfect, not only because it was a beautiful furnished apartment, but because the tenant was going to the mainland for 3-4 months and just needed someone to occupy it short term. We knew immediately that we wanted it, so after going back to our hotel, we reiterated to the tenant via email how much we wanted it.

He asked us to come back the next day to meet the landlord. You see, the apartment is kind of, sort of the basement — a baller one at that — for the main house that sits above it. (This is apparently a common apartment set-up in Hawaii.) The owners of the home are a lovely retired professor, his wife and their son. We met with the couple — the wife even made us some fresh guava juice — but it was more like a “here’s what you need to know about the apartment” than “let me check if you guys are mentally insane.” They told us about how the mail works, what the neighborhood was like and whatever else we’d need to know about the apartment. So I guess we got it?

YES WE DID. We were thrilled — mainly because it was the only response we got from Craigslist so we didn’t really have any other options.

Check it out:

We live up a mountain in a quiet, very residential neighborhood. And yeah, the walk up that driveway at the end of the day isn’t fun.

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We’re in Honolulu for the next three months! And here’s what we’ve been up to: weddings, apartment-hunting and a job!

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I know I technically have already posted about Honolulu, but I also know I owe you guys a proper update. The thing is, life has been, well, insane, to say the least. I’m an organizational maniac, so I think bullet points will work best since so many different things were happening at once:

  • On February 15, we traveled 15 hours from Panama to Hawaii — with a three-hour layover in LAX filled with Baja Fresh (sad they didn’t have Taco Bell) and these.
  • We spent our first night in Honolulu in a rather dingy hotel. My parents had booked Eaman and I a nice hotel room at a Marriott for the wedding Thursday through Monday and despite their insistence, I told them they did not need to spend more money on a room for Wednesday night since we were getting in at 10 p.m. anyway. We figured we’d just book a hostel for one night. Cut to two days before we left for Honolulu and ALL THE HOSTELS WERE BOOKED. And all the rooms at our Marriott were booked. So we ended up spending $108 on a dingy hotel room. Believe me, we considered sleeping at the airport or on the beach.
  • I got my first cold in 5 months of travel. Yes, I’ve had food poisoning, but a cold — an annoying, pestering cold — is sometimes worse. Dang recirculated air in airplane and too-high A/C in dingy hotel room.
  • We went to my cousin’s beautiful Hawaiian wedding.

It was a three-day event, filled with impeccable dinners, song and dance and some of the best slideshows I’ve ever seen at a wedding. (And I really love wedding slideshows.) Now I don’t know my cousin’s new husband, Craig, (a.k.a. my new cousin) all that well, but I do know my cousin, Pratt, and what I loved so much about this particular wedding was how true to her personality it was. Unfussy, stylish, relaxed, so genuinely sweet with touches of Hawaiian culture (Craig and Pratt actually live in Honolulu), it even involved yoga, which she teaches here in Honolulu.

We started the weekend with a beach day of paddle-boarding, badminton and, yep, yoga; we were treated to a brilliant dinner at Iolani Palace, then got to show our best moves at the sangeet, which is kind of like a talent show at Indian weddings; and we witnessed the union of two beautiful people at the ceremony and reception. And my god, the attention to detail! Fans — in the wedding color scheme — for guests during the balmy afternoon ceremony, tasty vegetarian options, which I can’t imagine are that easy to find in pork- and SPAM-loving Hawaii, and jars of local honey for wedding favors. Such a love-filled, beautifully planned event. Here, some snaps from the weekend:

Eaman, taking part in event one during beach day — a paddle-boarding competition moderated by Craig’s uncle, ESPN’s Brent Musburger:

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RTW Travelers’ {Digital} Dinner Party: Leap Day Edition!

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A huge thanks to Ted and Bethany over at Two Oregonians, who are hosting Eaman and I at their second {Digital} Dinner Party, an ingenious idea in which fellow RTW travel bloggers get together — virtually, of course — to mingle, “dine” and chat about the foods we miss, the foods we’ve discovered along the way and stories from the road.

Meet & Mingle

Hello and Hola! We find it most fitting to greet you in the two languages we’ve used along the road so far in our RTW trip. In August 2011, Eaman (an Oklahoma-bred Iranian guy) and I (a New Jersey-bred Indian girl) left our jobs in finance (him) and magazine journalism (me) to pursue our dream to travel the world. We began in Peru, continued on through Argentina, Uruguay, Chile and Colombia before spending a week with friends in Panama. We’re now in Honolulu, Hawaii, where we’ll be living for a few months in search of sun, surf, sand and a little break from all the moving around. We love intimate dinners, long walks on the beach and…oh, wait, wrong dinner invite.

Dinner Specialty

We’ve sampled an insane amount of delicious food in our travels — quinoa soup in Peru, steak in Buenos Aires, obleas in Colombia — but we thought it’d be best to bring a food from our current locale, Honolulu, which isn’t the typical backpacker pit-stop. I give you…the OnoPop.

Started in Hawaii by two brothers, Ono’s popsicles are local, organic and reflect Hawaiian ingredients as well as the Mexican paletas, an ice pop from the brothers’ Mexican homeland. Plus, they have the zaniest flavors: Rambutan Kaffir, Okinawan Purple Sweet Potato, Kalamansi Coriander — need I say more?

I’m more of a traditionalist, so I went with the strawberry lemonade at a recent Honolulu street food festival, called “Eat the Street,” which is held the last Friday of every month. The flavor was so tart, so natural so juicy. And just look at these strawberry seeds!

Table Talk

We’d love to talk about what 4.5 months traveling through South America looks like, regale everyone with tales from our three days in paradise in the San Blas Islands and talk about what it was like to travel 15 hours to Honolulu from Panama, attend my cousin’s three-day Indian wedding extravaganza, reconnect with family, deal with the very first nasty cold of my travels, find an apartment, get a job and find a place to crash for a week before our apartment lease began — all at the same time. (Post on that last, multi-layered one to come next!)

Check out the rest of the dishes and travel tales at http://www.twoOregonians.com/rtwdinnerparty.

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A Panama must: the San Blas Islands, all 360+ of them if you can

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With only a week in Panama, we had enough time to only hit up the City and one island destination. If you’re unfamiliar, Panama actually has tons of island destinations, including San Blas, Bocas del Toro, Coiba National Park and the Pearl Islands among others. It’s these gorgeous beaches that make me certain that Panama will be a top destination in the next few years. Oh, this helps, too.

After rummaging through message boards and asking our friends, we decided to visit the San Blas Islands for a few reasons: 1.) The islands — and there are more than 360 of them — are governed by the Kuna tribes people, not Panamanians, making a visit to the island a wonderful combination of Caribbean and culture. And 2.) It looks like this:


To be fair, I think all of Panama’s beaches are supposed to be this stunning, but I’m not sure all offer the same amount of serenity. Thanks in part to the rustic island living conditions that some people probably don’t want to put up with — fair enough! — the San Blas Islands are much less touristy than Bocas del Toro, which actually has hotels and restaurants.

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Panama City, or Why visiting friends abroad is always a good idea

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We knew only two things about Panama when we decided to stop there for a week between South America and Hawaii: 1.) It was nearly the same price to stop in Central America as it was to go straight to Honolulu from Colombia; 2.) Our college friend, Mike, and his wife, Maylin, lived there. Going with the mantra that you should always travel to where you have friends, picking Panama over touristy Costa Rica or rugged Guatemala — the two popular backpacker options — was an easy choice.

Little did we know this week with our friends would turn out to be one of the most fun of the last five months.

First of all, to say Mike and Maylin were awesme hosts would be a huge understatement. Not only did they give us a room — a whole room with a bathroom to ourselves! — in their beautiful high-rise apartment, they also took us out to the best restaurants and bars, and introduced us to their super fun friends.

Check out their stunning pad:


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Leaving South America: Reflections and a numerical breakdown

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I’ve spent a lot of the free time in my life traveling — through Europe, Australia, Egypt, India, the Caribbean, etc. — but South America always stuck out as one glaring to-do flag that just never was crossed off the list. And now, after 4.5 months through Peru, Argentina, Uruguay, Chile and Colombia, I can’t believe our time in this continent is over. (For now! I’ll be back to conquer giant Brazil some day soon.)

We’ve seen such awe-inspiring lanscapes and done some pretty gutsy things (i.e. zip-lining on six consecutive cables in Peru, cliff-diving in Argentina). We ate a lot, A LOT of food (mostly steak and dulce de leche). We made friends who made strong, sometimes life-changing impressions on us, even though we may never see them again. (By the way, it’s really hard to keep perspective that what you’re doing is cool and interesting when you constantly meet other travelers who are doing even cooler and more interesting things.)

But I also learned a lot about my personality, as well as Eaman’s and how we travel together. It’s not easy to be together 24/7, but aside from the minor flare-ups, I’m proud to say we make it work. Our relationship gets stronger every day, and perhaps that’s because we’ve gone through so much — from grueling hikes and nights out until 7 a.m. to language barriers and food poisioning.

Zarate, Argentina. Look at how short Eaman’s hair was!!


But we also have some regrets.

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Two weeks in Colombia: Ending in Medellin

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After a whirlwind trip through Bogota and Cartagena, we arrived in Medellin, our last city of Colombia — and South America — a few days ago. We were so excited to check out the city that just 15 years ago was dominated by drug wars and the infamous Pablo Escobar, and has since had a miraculous turnaround. (If you haven’t seen ESPN’s 30 for 30 film The Two Escobars, do yourself a favor and watch it now. It’s incredible.)

But then we got sick.

We’re not sure where the food poisoning came from, but we have a sneaking suspicion it was from Don Salami, where we both got the same plate of chicken, chorizo (I barely ate mine), rice, salad and plantains. Sure, it could’ve been one of the meals we had beachside in Cartagena, but that lunch in Medellin was the first time Eaman and I had eaten the same thing in a while. I’d post a picture of the meal, but I’d probably gag. But how fitting that we got sick at the very start of our time in South America and again at the very end? I suppose twice in 4.5 months ain’t half bad.

We only had 2.5 days in Medellin to begin with, so needless to say, we couldn’t do much. No Escobar walking tour (we couldn’t walk without needing to sit down every 10 minutes), no visit to Dulce Jesus Mio, a crazy nightclub, where bartenders dress up in Disney and Marvel Comics costumes, which I had read about here and no watching Super Bowl at one of the cool bars near Parque Lleras (a hip bar area sort of like Meatpacking in NYC). I didn’t care about that last one as much anyway.

Most of our time was spent writhing in our hostel beds — thank god it was just us in our four-person hostel room — or watching The Simpsons on DVD. Not that I’m complaining; it’s been a long time since I’ve seen those great episodes of seasons 5 and 6.

But when we recovered and had one day to see the city, we saw just how much the city is trying to spin its image. The center, where much of the conflict occurred in the past, is now dominated by plazas, parks and sculptures. Don’t get me wrong; it’s still an insanely busy downtown that’s not 100% safe at night, but its efforts to create beautiful public spaces is very inspiring.

Much of the center is filled with artwork by Fernando Botero Angulo, a Medellin-raised sculpture artist whose works can be seen all over Colombia. He’s famous for images of men, women and animals in exaggerated volumes.


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Two weeks in Colombia: Cartagena, quite possibly the most beautiful city in the world

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Colombia gets a lot of love from backpackers, but no city within the newly minted go-to destination gets as much love as Cartagena. A small coastal town with a culture all its own — a vibrant mix of Afro-Caribbean-Spanish — Cartagena is called the jewel of the Colombian coast in my Footprints guidebook, and after spending five days there, we can understand why.


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