We’re now in Vietnam, and I’m realizing just how hard it is to do as the locals do without a friend to guide us through the chaotic streets. It reminds me how lucky we were to have Fareesa hand pick all of our restaurants in Hong Kong. We named the cuisine, she found us a hidden gem. And as all good dining experiences should go, we learned a lot about HK culture in the process. (In general for Asia, I try to be vegetarian, but if there’s no other choice, the place looks clean and/or the meal looks that good, I’m happy to deflect.)
Cha Chaan Teng. This literally means tea restaurant, but cha chaan teng is better described as Hong Kong’s version of a diner. It’s affordable, eclectic and full of locals, young and old. We let Fareesa order for us and she did good — condensed milk buns, crispy noodles with tiger prawn, the famous fishball noodle soup and very traditional iced milk tea, called tong lai cha. I’m usually weary of things called fish ball soup, but this is a year of trying new things, and so I just went with it. And you know, it was actually really good, though my favorite was the garlic and chili chicken soup.
Dim Sum. We tried dim sum once in New York, and it was an epic failure. That’s probably because we had no clue what to order. In Hong Kong, Fareesa took us to the Michelin-starred Din Tai Fung, a branch of the famous Taiwan restaurant, and she and her friend ordered us plate after plate of amazing food, including vegetable buns, Dan Dan Mien (noodles in peanut sauce), beef noodle soup and the specialty, Xian Long Bao, which even comes with instructions on how to best enjoy each dumpling. It’s made of pork, which I usually don’t eat, but obviously I had to sample the best if it was in front of me. And yes, it was the best thing we ordered.
Paisano’s (top) and Pubblico (bottom):
I feel a little bad for stereotyping Hong Kong as all party-party, drink-drink. Of course, those things play a big, BIG role in HK life*, but as I mentioned, there’s so much more to this set of islands.**
Our friend, host and acting tour guide, Fareesa, outlined plenty of fun things to do in the city and surronds, and no day was the same.
Happy Valley Races. Held every Wednesday night throughout most of the year, this beer garden-meets-horse race is completely wild. Chinese men take their gambling very seriously, but you’d be hard-pressed to find expats with that much focus on the horses. They’re by the beer stalls, natch.
Eaman with a very happy winner.
Kowloon Markets. This is the real Hong Kong, located in Kowloon, which can be reached by MTR (the superb train system) or the Star Ferry, which costs just a few dollars (cheaper than the MTR). The daily kitsch shopping meccas include the ladies, goldfish and bird markets. With the humidity, we had enough energy for only ladies and goldfish but absoluely loved the energy and authenticity. And even for a Saturday, they were less packed than you’d think. You can get pretty much anything — from sunglasses and watches to basketball jerseys and fascinators at the ladies market, while the fish market sells all sort of sea creatures particular to Asia, both bagged and in tanks. It makes sense to dedicate a whole market to fish since the Chinese consider them good luck. Plus, they’re a much better space-saving pet than a dog.
The Peak Hike. Most tourists take the tram up to the Peak, the highest point in Hong Kong. But our friend Fareesa knew of a much more scenic, much less touristy route up. Follow the Mid-Levels escalator to the top, turn right at Conduit Road and follow until you can fork left onto Hatton. It’s a little further uphill to the start of the hike, which takes about 1.5 hours. You’ll forget all about urban life once you hit the 2,800 meter trail. It’s a paved path, but the scenery shifts between jungle and mountains. And hiker beware: If it’s as humid as our day was, go early in the morning or later in the afternoon — and bring water! We almost passed out halfway through. (Old Asian men and women were practically lapping us, so we were clearly not yet acclimated to the heat and pollution.) Take the tram down if you’re less inclined to hike back down.
View from the top.
Sweaty and hating it.
Will never understand how someone can wear a denim dress in that humidity.
Tai O. Perhaps my favorite part of our Hong Kong trip, this quiet fishing village on Lantau Island is about as far as you can get from Hong Kong Island, figuratively speaking. It’s pretty off-the-grid, and there isn’t much to see beyond stilt homes, some produce stalls and locals biking through the windy streets, but that’s its beauty. Best of all, we were pretty much the only non-Asian tourists.
Big Buddha and Po Lin Monastery. This 112-foot bronze Buddha was erected in 1993 after 12 years of construction, so while it may not have ancient cred, it’s still a majestic sight to see. Set in the mountans of Lantau Island, the Buddha is reached by 200 concrete steps and leads to a breathtaking view of the island. Despite the many tourists who come to see the big guy, the space remains oddly zen. And for an extra dose of zen, the Po Lin monastery — where you can see richly colored temples and incense-burning urns before dining on a vegetarian lunch — is immediately next door.
Sheung Wan. If Central Hong Kong is Manhattan, Sheung Wan is Brooklyn. Just a few minutes walk from the city center is this quaint neighborhood that resembles Williamsburg, with quieter, more spacious streets and very New York-style cafes and restaurants. If I lived in Hong Kong and wanted a city feel, this would be it. But sorry, I completely forgot to take pictures!
Shek O. But more than likely, I wouldn’t want a city feel even if
I lived in Hong Kong. I’d live in the beach village town of Shek O, home to Asians and Aussie expats alike. Located in the southern part of Hong Kong Island, you really need a car to get here, unless you’re up for a 2-hour commute. True, the beach may not be up to Hawaiian standards, but the vibe is all there. People walk around barefoot, the shops sell tubes and boogie boards and the food — particularly the Thai meal we had — is off the chain.
*If you want to get in on the party-party, drink-drink, some of the better clubs include Fly, Volar, Tazmania Ballroom and Dragon-I. For after-hours fun, try Buddha Lounge. And for a hilarious few minutes, try Al’s Diner to see what Hong Kong thinks consitutes an American bar. (Hint: Biggie Smalls, “California Love,” and jello shots. Well, they’re not that off.)
**We didn’t get to do the Dragon’s Back hike — rated best urban hike by Time Asia in 2004 — or visit Lamma Island, another fishing village where you can delicious seafood. But we’ll pass on a tip given to us: Order everything with garlic and chili.
I lived in New York. This should be easy, I thought.
But as I soon realized, I knew very little about this shiny east-meets-west city — and was probably less equipped than ever to take Hong Kong in after three months of extreme chillaxing in Honolulu.
We landed in Hong Kong last Tuesday night, and after 16 hours of travel, it was amazing to see a friendly face. We were staying with our wonderful friend from college, Fareesa, who has made quite a nice life for herself after moving to Hong Kong three years ago.
But we weren’t just crashing at her place. Girl has taken care of us. She gave us her bed, stocked the fridge with food even though she herself never eats in, welcomed us with this amazing sign…
…and prepared edited guides and lists of things to do, complete with highlighted maps and a Blackberry to use during our stay. It was incredible. I know friends help friends out, but this was above and beyond.
As I’ve said before, visiting friends abroad is never a bad decision. Fareesa has been one of the most thoughtful and generous hosts we’ve ever had. She’s such a happy, social and fun person that it was fantastic to have quality time to catch up. We felt so lucky to finally spend time with her on her new home turf and have her as a source for exploration.
And as we realized, Hong Kong — without knowing the hidden gems — comes off as just a crazy busy city with nightlife and restaurants. Little did we know just how much there was to do besides drink and dine. (I’ll detail specifics — food, activities, etc. — in upcoming posts.)
But what’s Hong Kong like at a glance?
Well, Hong Kong Island — Hong Kong is comprised of more than 200 islands and its namesake is the one everyone thinks of — has all the elements of New York, London and China in a more amped-up, hodgepodge mix. One minute you’ll see British expats in slick suits pounding away on their Blackberrys; the next, a quiet Chinese fisherman, eating a snack by Victoria Harbour.
It’s a jarring, but not unpleasant, mix of old and new. And in all the glitz of finance and fashion, it’s nice to be reminded that this place isn’t just an expat’s playground.
Though, sometimes it’s hard to see beyond the glossy veneer. Hong Kong can be a male expat playground, to the point that there’s a distinct air of machismo in the city that I didn’t love. Of course there are powerful females in Hong Kong, but the guy-girl ratio is so staggering that their presence is definitely marginalized. With so many men in finance, it doesn’t take long to learn that money rules. And rent may be the highest in the world in Hong Kong, but it’s very easy to live a nice life because everything else is so cheap — pressed laundry, foot massages, the works.
Fareesa explained to me that many people in Hong Kong get “Peter Pan Syndrome”: It’s so easy to stay young and so hard to grow up. Check out the weekly crowds spilling out onto the streets around Lan Kwai Fong — the nightlife center — on Friday and Saturday nights, and you’ll understand. Whether they’re 45 or 25, expats (and non-Chinese) in Hong Kong work hard and play even harder.
Regular Friday night in Lan Kwai Fong.
But that’s just one side of the city, and if it’s the only side you see, you’re really missing out. The most surprising thing about Hong Kong is that it’s a place of variety. As much as you can party and eat fancy meals, you can get out of Central, the main urban area, and see beautiful mountains and beaches, serene fishing villages, and a lot fewer people. I’ve never really been to a place where there’s that much of…everything. Every day we spent in the city has been so different and that’s what has made a week — more than the average tourist spends here — the perfect amount of time to understand how the city operates. It’s a diverse and fascinating place.
As for me, Hawaii has turned me soft. Now I get overwhelmed, anxious and downright claustrophobic in big cities. Hawaii couldn’t have been more different of a place and we were a little shaken when we first arrived in Hong Kong. Everything is so intense here that we felt like we were moving in slow motion compared to everyone else. And the first few days — paired with the unbearable heat, humidity and pollution, which I know, I know, I have to get used to in Asia’s muggy season — were exhausting.
But we knew the rest of our Asia trip would be a whole lot more zen, so we rolled with the punches. We hiked through the humidity, we sampled super local food, we partied until 5am — we did as the Honkies do. I would’ve hated the city if we didn’t know anyone, but because we did, it made a world of a difference and, in the end, changed my perception of Hong Kong.
It may not be for me long-term, but I absolutely recommend a visit, and I’ll show you how to make your visit worthwhile over the next few posts with tips and suggestions to get the most authentic experience.
For now, some photos to help you visualize:
The escalators built in the middle of the city make navigating the uphills much easier. With a hop-on, hop-off system, it’s an awesome way to get around — and avoid congestion on street level.
Faithful tour guide and host.
The IFC building, which Batman stood atop in The Dark Knight.
$15 foot massages? Yes, please!
Golden retriever puppies at a Kowloon pet store. Maybe the highlight of Hong Kong (for me).
Street lanterns.
Meeting up in Sheung Wan — Hong Kong’s version of Brooklyn — with my friend and old co-worker, Gillian, who moved here from New York in March.
Mosque.
Butterfly.
IFC Mall madness.
Regular madness.
*Thanks to Fareesa for some of these photos!
I mentioned in my last post that we had some good news. I’m not sure what you guys thought it was — actually, I know what a couple of you thought it was — but it’s travel-related, natch. Friends, we’ve booked our next ticket!
On June 4, we bid farewell and a big mahalo to Hawaii and say hello to…
…where we’ll meet up with one of my great college friends, who’s lived out there for a few years, and then fly directly to Hanoi, Vietnam (!) a week later. From that point onward — how we get to the next location and how long we spend there — will be plan-as-we-go, a method that served us quite well in South America.
The general outline after Vietnam is Cambodia, Laos, Thailand, Myanmar and India — and we’re open to any detours, the way Colombia presented itself to us in South America. At the same time, Asia can be Backpackersville, so we’d love to hear if any of you have any recommendations for little towns, activities, beaches, hostels, restaurants and everything else.
You may remember that we had always planned about continuing to travel to Asia, but as I had mentioned, once we got to Hawaii, without any real deadlines, we realized we could stay in Hawaii semi-permanently if we so desired. Our landlord was even open to a longer stay. And to be honest, there was a point when we were making some moves — which involved developing a business idea that ultimately didn’t pan out — that would call for keeping our bags unpacked a bit longer.
But as time went on — as much as we loved the surf and sand — we missed backpacking, not to mention the fact that going home — Eaman for his Persian New Year and me for my grandmother’s funeral — made us realize that it was way too easy to slip back into our normal lives. It made us feel like the last 6 months had gone by even quicker than we had felt it go by ourselves. We want, nay, we need more!
Ah yes, Asia feels so right at this point in our travels. The food, the people, the nature, the peace. South America was one particular type of adventure, but we’re ready to make the next chapter of this trip about feeding our souls. We’re hoping to try meditation retreats, interact with more locals and volunteer. (Recs for those, too, please!)
And no, it’s not easy to bid farewell to paradise — especially for Eaman who has really connected to island life — but we still have more than a month to take advantage of everything here, so it’s not goodbye yet. We’re on island time anyway.
Image via